Hidden Above A Canyon: The Mysterious Pyramid Of Cañada De La Virgen
The pyramid from afar. Photo by The Empire City Wire.
Cañada de la Virgen
Tucked away just outside San Miguel de Allende, the ancient pyramid of Cañada de la Virgen rises quietly above a lush canyon—a structure that whispers stories of long-lost civilizations, volcanic origins, and an unexpectedly controversial present.
Our tour was originally booked with Albert Coffee, a prominent archaeologist and local icon in San Miguel De Allende who also served as a tour guide. We learned only a day before our tour that he had passed away from a very severe case of pneumonia less than a month before our scheduled tour date. As we approached the rendezvous point to get picked up, a substitute guide introduced himself to our tour group as Horatio, a Mexico City born, San Miguel De Allende transplant. He turned out to be very knowledgeable and demonstrated a strong understanding of the site and its history as he fielded questions from the tour group.
Our journey to the site began at St. Paul’s Church in San Miguel, where our tour group gathered for the roughly 30 minute drive into the Mexican countryside. The road winds through brush land and farmland, eventually leading to the remote site, which remains off the beaten tourist path. Once tourists exit the bus, they then embark on a mile long walk up a steep and winding avenue of cobblestone and volcanic steps. The air is thin which makes the walk feel a lot more exerting than it actually is and the cobblestone and dirt path is uneven and rocky so visitors must be vigilant as it is very easy to twist an ankle.
Photo by The Empire City Wire.
Site Operations
Due to the unique operational situation of the site, there are some nuances rules and regulations that guests and visitors must follow. While professional cameras are strictly forbidden, cellphones and taking photos with smartphones, is allowed. There are lockers available on the site for tourists, so guests don’t need to worry about bringing backpacks or other items as they can be stored safely on the site as the tour commences. There are also multiple restrooms available on the grounds as well.
The surrounding areas of the pyramid also include some manicured areas with educational information on local vegetation. There are also groundskeepers and staff that make sure the site is well maintained and kept in good condition. Some paths do contain anthills so guests should not only be sure to watch their footing around uneven cobbling but also for insect life. Our tour guide warned us of scorpions too!
There is also some interesting, somewhat vague, and conflicting information provided online and by our group’s tour guide about the management of the site. According to our group’s tour guide, the site is jointly operated by the Mexican government and a German woman rumored to be an heiress of the Krupp family whose ties to Hitler and the Nazi party add a strange and shadowy layer to the pyramid’s modern story. The Krupp family were steel industrialists who manufactured ammunition, artillery, and other armaments for the German military during World War II. It’s hard to validate these rumors however, as there is little recorded evidence of this connection available online. While the ruins predate any 20th-century politics by centuries, gossip about the land’s current custodianship raises questions that remain largely speculative and unverified.
A view of the pyramid and the ball court. Photo by The Empire City Wire
The History
The name “Cañada de la Virgen” translates to “Canyon of the Virgin,” named after a small totem of a virgin found during archaeological digs. The pyramid itself sits perched above a canyon that floods during the wet season, creating a vivid natural scene teeming with life—frogs, turtles, fish—and a network of mysterious tunnels. Archaeologists believe these tunnels were once inhabited, but they remain unexcavated, adding to the allure and mystique of the site.
Archaeologists also made a remarkable discovery within the inner chambers of the pyramid: the preserved remains of a man who had been entombed there for nearly a thousand years. His burial was no accident. The placement of his body, along with the ceremonial objects found around him, revealed that the pyramid was not only a monument of power and precision—it was a sacred ritual site.
The positioning of the man’s body and the surrounding offerings suggest he may have been an elite figure—possibly a priest, ruler, or astronomer—someone of high social or spiritual standing. His burial inside the pyramid indicates that the structure served multiple purposes: it functioned as a tomb, a ceremonial platform, and perhaps even a celestial observatory. Many scholars believe the people who built and used Cañada de la Virgen had a deep understanding of astronomy, timing their rituals and architecture with the solar and lunar calendars.
This burial discovery deepens the understanding of the site as more than just a defensive structure or a place of worship—it was a center of life, death, and cosmic observation. It stands as a testament to the complexity of the civilization that once thrived here, whose story is still being unearthed piece by piece.
According to our tour guide, over the past hundred years or so, the site has been raided and pillaged by tomb raiders searching for gold. In one instance, a tomb raider even used dynamite to blow up the top of the pyramid, which was where the entrance to the temple was located. Locals have also taken stones from the site, and statues that once stood there have since been removed.
The construction of these pyramids and other architectural structures along the central Laja River basin is attributed to Toltec-Chichimec groups. The Cañada de la Virgen was part of a larger social organization linked to the Toltec political system. The pyramid is constructed from volcanic rock sourced from the nearby Picacho volcano. The structure is unique for its steep and narrow stairways, a design believed to be strategic—narrow enough to slow down or discourage invaders during conflict. It’s not hard to imagine how such architectural choices were part of a larger system of defense.
Historians and archaeologists believe the pyramid and surrounding settlement were abandoned suddenly—perhaps due to drought, famine, or war. Whatever the cause, the departure seems to have been abrupt, leaving behind a site that feels paused in time.
Photo by The Empire City Wire.
The Future
Cañada de la Virgen is one of many pyramids and archaeological sites located throughout Mexico. It is one of the locations that is less excavated than other sites around the country. Many portions of the site are either in the early stages of a reconstruction or plainly just unexplored formally by credentialed archaeologists.
There is still much to learn from Cañada de la Virgen, a site whose mysteries continue to unfold despite a history marked by looting and neglect. While early interference has inevitably led to the loss of valuable artifacts and context, the current caretakers are working diligently to protect what remains. Their efforts—rooted in both scientific research and cultural respect—aim to preserve the integrity of the site and ensure that future generations can study and connect with its legacy. Though some chapters of its past may be missing, the story of Cañada de la Virgen is far from over.
Caught in the tension between archaeological significance and the weight of recent history. Whether you’re there for the ruins, the archaeology, or the unanswered questions, the site leaves you with more than just photographs. It leaves you with curiosity.
